So much to write, so little space…
I have suffered a great loss. While riding the train from Centraal Station to Schiphol (the airport) in Amsterdam I had my entire backpack stolen. I was exhausted from the flight over, which is unusual because I usually handle jet-lag well, and I fell asleep for a moment- maybe 5 minutes, tops- and some quick-minded nimble-fingered thief stole my bag from between my feet. The irony is that the last paragraph of my now stolen travel journal was a meditation on how dangerous my situation- alone in unfamiliar Europe- really was. (Excuse my dangling participle.)
Inside the bag was my passport, $400 USD, my new Bible, my travel journal and other assorted junk. The thing that hurt the most was losing the journal. Most embarrassing was the passport. So yesterday afternoon was painful. I spent the balance of the afternoon/evening dealing with the Amsterdam police, the airline, the train company and making arrangements to sleep. Oh yes, the credit card company put a hold on my Visa too. (Although they did it to protect me, they wound up making matters worse; I still can’t use the card to call back home.)
So today I spent the morning dealing with the U.S. Consulate, the airline, the credit card company, etc, until I finally had my ducks in a row. The Consulate issued me an emergency passport and the airline waived all fees and put me on the same flight I missed yesterday. Of course, now I’m sitting on the plane and its 10 minutes past departure time and we still haven’t moved.
So today I spent the morning dealing with the U.S. Consulate, the airline, the credit card company, etc, until I finally had my ducks in a row. The Consulate issued me an emergency passport and the airline waived all fees and put me on the same flight I missed yesterday. Of course, now I’m sitting on the plane and its 10 minutes past departure time and we still haven’t moved.
Meanwhile, this trip is gonna cost me a fortune! Apparently there’s no such thing as ‘reasonably priced’ in the Netherlands, only ‘overpriced’ and ‘outright expensive.’
As far as- Holy Turkey! First, we’re not moving because the crew mis-timed loading the plane. Now some idiot, yes, IDIOT, refuses to store his carry-ons under the seat and is, therefore, blocking an exit row! This is killing me.- Anyway, as far as Amsterdam is concerned, its pretty much the nicest architectural city I’ve ever been in. Also, the shopping is excellent, although you have to look past the whole sex/drug culture they’ve created here. Porn is visible all over downtown and in any newsstand, and drugs are readily available at the many head shops around town. One restaurant, right in the shopping district, features scantily clad- we’re talking g-strings here- waitresses ready to show you to your table. (What they do after that, I don’t know.) I think it was called ‘Teasers’, but I’m not sure.
One thing I found helpful here is the fact that English is universally spoken as the second language. In fact, that’s probably the #1 reason I got into this mess in the 1st place! If I’d been routed through Berlin or Paris I probably would have just stayed in the airport regardless of how many hours the layover was, but Amsterdam? Been there, done that, easy. Berlin I don’t know (likewise most of Europe), Paris, well, they’re French, but nine hours in Amsterdam? It was just too tempting. And now I’m out around a thousand bucks. I’m gonna miss that journal…
One thing I found helpful here is the fact that English is universally spoken as the second language. In fact, that’s probably the #1 reason I got into this mess in the 1st place! If I’d been routed through Berlin or Paris I probably would have just stayed in the airport regardless of how many hours the layover was, but Amsterdam? Been there, done that, easy. Berlin I don’t know (likewise most of Europe), Paris, well, they’re French, but nine hours in Amsterdam? It was just too tempting. And now I’m out around a thousand bucks. I’m gonna miss that journal…
Of course, the question must be asked, why?! Why have I had to go through all this?
Aside: A couple of quick observations: 1) True stereotype or peroxide paradise, there are a lot more blondes in the Netherlands than anywhere else I’ve been. 2) With all my travel troubles of the last day, at least I’m not the guy across the aisle: a young (is she even 18?) very blond flight attendant just poured an entire cup of Sprite in his lap. 3) The meal on this light is a) Eastern, which is nice, b) accompanied by the smallest silverware I’ve ever seen. Seriously, it is not an exaggeration to say that Alyssa has bigger silverware for her dolls to eat with. Excuse another dangling participle. 4) The Turks on this flight have almost drained the entire supply of alcoholic beverages. Amazing. (Muslim indeed!)
Back to ‘Why?’ I mean, I’ve thought about it and I really don’t have a good answer. To humble me? That’s my first guess, and if that’s all it takes to do the job, then PRAISE GOD! I can think of much more damaging punishments. Enemy interference? Certainly a possibility. The nature of this trip can’t easily be ignored by the ruler of the air. I am confident that the training and networking that will take place this week will make a deep impact on the stronghold of Islam. A personal test? Perhaps, but to what avail? Although I have been disheartened and lost my temper (a perpetual failing for me), I haven’t failed anywhere new, and although I won’t call it a victory for my temper, I’ve been much worse for far less. A combination of all three? None of the above? Only the Lord knows for certain. What matters most to me now is that although I’m a day late and a grand short, all is still well with the world.
Back to ‘Why?’ I mean, I’ve thought about it and I really don’t have a good answer. To humble me? That’s my first guess, and if that’s all it takes to do the job, then PRAISE GOD! I can think of much more damaging punishments. Enemy interference? Certainly a possibility. The nature of this trip can’t easily be ignored by the ruler of the air. I am confident that the training and networking that will take place this week will make a deep impact on the stronghold of Islam. A personal test? Perhaps, but to what avail? Although I have been disheartened and lost my temper (a perpetual failing for me), I haven’t failed anywhere new, and although I won’t call it a victory for my temper, I’ve been much worse for far less. A combination of all three? None of the above? Only the Lord knows for certain. What matters most to me now is that although I’m a day late and a grand short, all is still well with the world.
………
December 8, 2005 Istanbul, Turkey
My first full day in Istanbul has been a busy one. Aside from lectures on evangelism to Muslims, I also had the chance, and took it, to see the city a bit. All I caught in today's tour was the Hagia Sophia and the Chora monastery.
The Hagia Sophia (Ayasophia) is a tragedy in full progress. Built and rebuilt, it was once a spectacle to behold. Now however, it is ugly and in disrepair. Between its conversion to a mosque and earthquakes (common to the region), there has been so much damage that it really looks pathetic. How could such a pivotal Christian historical structure fall so far? The Chora had much better mosaics and no visible Islamic influence other than the minaret that was added at the time of its conversion to a mosque.
December 8, 2005 Istanbul, Turkey
My first full day in Istanbul has been a busy one. Aside from lectures on evangelism to Muslims, I also had the chance, and took it, to see the city a bit. All I caught in today's tour was the Hagia Sophia and the Chora monastery.
The Hagia Sophia (Ayasophia) is a tragedy in full progress. Built and rebuilt, it was once a spectacle to behold. Now however, it is ugly and in disrepair. Between its conversion to a mosque and earthquakes (common to the region), there has been so much damage that it really looks pathetic. How could such a pivotal Christian historical structure fall so far? The Chora had much better mosaics and no visible Islamic influence other than the minaret that was added at the time of its conversion to a mosque.Another cultural experience I had was drinking my first, and hopefully only, cup of Turkish coffee. It was at a carpet store like the one I visited in Tangiers when I was with Mandi and mom and dad. It was bitter and muddy, but now I can say I've "been there, done that."There's more to write, but its 11:30 and I am dog tired. Good night.
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December 9, 2005 Istanbul, Turkey
Turkey may be the only country in the world that sits on 2 continents. Northern Turkey sits in Europe and Southern Turkey lies in Asia. In fact the dividing line is the Bosphorus Strait, which also bisects Istanbul. So, although I didn't actually leave the city today, I did manage to leave Europe for a couple of hours.
After more [E training] today a group of us went to the south side of the city to try to apply some of our new skilz at a popular street for students to hang out at. [Omission here to protect the integrity of the method and security of those using it.]
Our time on the street was interesting, but unproductive. Without translators we failed almost completely to connect w/people on the street. Also, it was very cold today, so no one wanted to hang out. Everyone I saw was bundled up and moving briskly toward warmth, wherever that might be.
One interesting aspect of Istanbul is the night life. We ate dinner at 7PM, then stepped out onto the most crowded street I can remember ever being on. There were throngs of people walking and shopping and generally having a good time. Literally thousands of people choking a three lane thoroughfare.
Although I'm enjoying this country, without translators I'd have a hard time getting excited about bringing students back here. The language barrier is annoying to say the least. Still, I stood today on a street corner overlooking a plaza filled with people and as I watched everyone scurry about the mundane business of life I imagined everyone as dark or light based on their spiritual condition, trying to see them as Jesus might. And it was sobering to realize that if salvation was the requirement to give off light, I was looking at a mass of completely dark humanity. In all probability, mine was the only light shining in that dark place. These people need Jesus, and we need to help them understand that.
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December 10, 2005 Istanbul, Turkey
I am so tired! [I often repeat that. Jet lag.] We're up early and late and who can rest when you only have a week to see one of the world's most historically significant cities!?
Turkey may be the only country in the world that sits on 2 continents. Northern Turkey sits in Europe and Southern Turkey lies in Asia. In fact the dividing line is the Bosphorus Strait, which also bisects Istanbul. So, although I didn't actually leave the city today, I did manage to leave Europe for a couple of hours.
After more [E training] today a group of us went to the south side of the city to try to apply some of our new skilz at a popular street for students to hang out at. [Omission here to protect the integrity of the method and security of those using it.]
Our time on the street was interesting, but unproductive. Without translators we failed almost completely to connect w/people on the street. Also, it was very cold today, so no one wanted to hang out. Everyone I saw was bundled up and moving briskly toward warmth, wherever that might be.
One interesting aspect of Istanbul is the night life. We ate dinner at 7PM, then stepped out onto the most crowded street I can remember ever being on. There were throngs of people walking and shopping and generally having a good time. Literally thousands of people choking a three lane thoroughfare.
Although I'm enjoying this country, without translators I'd have a hard time getting excited about bringing students back here. The language barrier is annoying to say the least. Still, I stood today on a street corner overlooking a plaza filled with people and as I watched everyone scurry about the mundane business of life I imagined everyone as dark or light based on their spiritual condition, trying to see them as Jesus might. And it was sobering to realize that if salvation was the requirement to give off light, I was looking at a mass of completely dark humanity. In all probability, mine was the only light shining in that dark place. These people need Jesus, and we need to help them understand that.
.........
December 10, 2005 Istanbul, Turkey
I am so tired! [I often repeat that. Jet lag.] We're up early and late and who can rest when you only have a week to see one of the world's most historically significant cities!?
Today we finished our [E training] and spent the afternoon shopping. We went to the spice market and the Grand Bazaar. Frankly, I wasn't impressed. [In hindsight, I was full of crappola when I wrote that. They were amazing places.] The prices were high and the selection wasn't that great, but I did manage to cover Mandi's Christmas and gifts for everyone back home. Perhaps the best souvenir I've found here is an apple tea that tastes almost like cider. They serve it in shops if you stay longer than a few minutes.
I also have to say that it was disappointing not to be able to use my new training in [brief omission]. About a quarter of our group went out today with people they met while sharing around town earlier in the week. I, naturally, was in the other 75%. That delay in Amsterdam really colored the whole week. In fact, training has been bittersweet. Bitter because I cam with an expectation of being able to actually use our training here. Sweet because we did get to network with other missionaries and were able to see at least a little bit of this amazing city. Still, I don't plan on coming back.
Where I am excited to go is Jordan. Now that I have the [E training] I really feel like it would be useful to bring a team to Amman. Tomorrow is Ephesus.
I also have to say that it was disappointing not to be able to use my new training in [brief omission]. About a quarter of our group went out today with people they met while sharing around town earlier in the week. I, naturally, was in the other 75%. That delay in Amsterdam really colored the whole week. In fact, training has been bittersweet. Bitter because I cam with an expectation of being able to actually use our training here. Sweet because we did get to network with other missionaries and were able to see at least a little bit of this amazing city. Still, I don't plan on coming back.
Where I am excited to go is Jordan. Now that I have the [E training] I really feel like it would be useful to bring a team to Amman. Tomorrow is Ephesus.
I need to sleep.
.........
December 12, 2005 Istanbul, Turkey
On the plane to go home... finally. Ephesus was brilliant. I imagine that in the time of Paul it was more beautiful than any modern city in the world today. Simpler, but more attractive.
The Agora, the Celcus library, the stadium, the fountains and statues and temples... All were designed to be aesthetic first. Function followed form, and it was good.
The stadium where Paul stood before the crowd and was caught in a mob seated 24 thousand people. Walking through the ruins you can only wish that the whole city was still alive. It was a vibrant place with marble and granite streets, statues and frescoes everywhere, fountains all over and a busy harbor in plain view.
.........
December 12, 2005 Istanbul, Turkey
On the plane to go home... finally. Ephesus was brilliant. I imagine that in the time of Paul it was more beautiful than any modern city in the world today. Simpler, but more attractive.
The Agora, the Celcus library, the stadium, the fountains and statues and temples... All were designed to be aesthetic first. Function followed form, and it was good.
The stadium where Paul stood before the crowd and was caught in a mob seated 24 thousand people. Walking through the ruins you can only wish that the whole city was still alive. It was a vibrant place with marble and granite streets, statues and frescoes everywhere, fountains all over and a busy harbor in plain view.Now it is a ruin. Of the 127 columns that surrounded the Temple of Artemis, one of the 7 wonders of the Ancient World, one remains. The bay silted in to the point that the sea is now 2.5 miles away. The two rivers that fed the city are gone. All that's left is a museum.
Food. I'll say this about Turkish food: Mmmm... The food has been good. Other than breakfast at the hotel I never ate the same meal twice. True, there have been a few major letdowns, but overall I'd be okay here. They eat a lot of chicken and lamb, and of course there's the Turkish Delight. Mmm. Turkish Delight... I bit into one sample and it was as if the scent of a rose somehow alit in my mouth, which was good. One thing though; make sure you get it with nuts- pistachios if possible. About the only other dish I can actually name is Pide. Pide is like pizza without the sauce, only better. It comes in the shape of a sub-sandwich, but its flat. They put meat and/or cheese in the middle, then fold the edges inward just a bit. Greasy, but very good.
Joe. Another surprise on this trip was the opportunity to spend time w/Joe Rust. Joe was one of my predecessors at the Indiana University Baptist Collegiate Ministry. He had a miserable experience there and was apparently fired. No one knew what happened to him until now: he's the BCM Director for UCLA now.
Food. I'll say this about Turkish food: Mmmm... The food has been good. Other than breakfast at the hotel I never ate the same meal twice. True, there have been a few major letdowns, but overall I'd be okay here. They eat a lot of chicken and lamb, and of course there's the Turkish Delight. Mmm. Turkish Delight... I bit into one sample and it was as if the scent of a rose somehow alit in my mouth, which was good. One thing though; make sure you get it with nuts- pistachios if possible. About the only other dish I can actually name is Pide. Pide is like pizza without the sauce, only better. It comes in the shape of a sub-sandwich, but its flat. They put meat and/or cheese in the middle, then fold the edges inward just a bit. Greasy, but very good.Joe. Another surprise on this trip was the opportunity to spend time w/Joe Rust. Joe was one of my predecessors at the Indiana University Baptist Collegiate Ministry. He had a miserable experience there and was apparently fired. No one knew what happened to him until now: he's the BCM Director for UCLA now.
It was hard to get a handle on Joe. He's single, well over 50, and somewhat cynical. I'm not sure I heard one positive comment from him the entire time we've been here. I'm hoping he'll have some materials for me to archive for the IUBCM.
Jordan. One potential upside of this week may be a return trip to Jordan. As useless as I felt after the first trip there, I have been hesitant to return. Now however, I feel useful again. I really believe the CM will work, and I think that will give us the ability to productively engage the Musilm culture. That excites me. I am drawn to it. Maybe over Christmas break next year? Who knows? I don't, but I look forward to engaging Islam in a struggle it must inevitably lose, and especially now that I have a practical way to do so.
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Still the 12th, now in Minneapolis, MN. with an 8 hour layover.
Jordan. One potential upside of this week may be a return trip to Jordan. As useless as I felt after the first trip there, I have been hesitant to return. Now however, I feel useful again. I really believe the CM will work, and I think that will give us the ability to productively engage the Musilm culture. That excites me. I am drawn to it. Maybe over Christmas break next year? Who knows? I don't, but I look forward to engaging Islam in a struggle it must inevitably lose, and especially now that I have a practical way to do so.
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Still the 12th, now in Minneapolis, MN. with an 8 hour layover.
Its nice to be back in America. I've come to realize over the past few days since my bag was stolen that there is a great strain that accompanies overseas travel which take the form of wariness and leads to great weariness. What I mean by that is that here in the U.S., at home, so to speak, I am comfortable, relaxed, confident and unconcerned about my well-being or personal security, because of the perfect cultural awareness that comes from simply being an American, from spending a lifetime in America.Abroad, that comfort is stolen. I don't mean it is ripped away, although, as in the instance of my Amsterdam experience, that can happen. What I mean is that as one is removed from one's native cultural habitat, one is left invariably exposed, like a fish out of water. Of course you can survive and enjoy the travel experience- I still love it- but there is a part of your psyche that must remain ever vigilant in a way that it doesn't when at home. For example, you can go to a restaurant in Istanbul, have great fellowship, enjoy the ambience of the place, the quality of the service and the excellence of the food, but deep down you don't totally relax. Ordering is a little harder since you don't speak the language. You wonder about pickpockets, and whether the waiter bring you what you want, or pad the bill... Are you being taken advantage of?! That is the question at the heart of it, and that's why it feels so good to be back in my home country, among the familiar, relaxed.
And one final note- from a book I've been reading on Wm. Wilberforce, the great English MP. I have often said that I feel blessed beyond all I could possibly ever deserve, but Wilberforce captured it best,
"Surely the universal kindness which I experience is to be regarded as asingular
instance of the goodness of the Almighty. Indeed, no one has somuch cause to
adopt the declaration that goodness and mercy have followed me all my days."
As I consider my life, my family, my work, my experience with God the Father Almighty, I must, am obligated really, to repeat such a grand sentiment. Who is blessed more than I. Such a man I've yet to meet.
